Woodworking Magic in Chiloe, Part II

A bit of history:

Jesuit missionaries arrived on the island of Chiloé in the early 1600s for the purpose of evangelizing the Huilliche inhabitants of the region. No population was too small: not only did they reach out to those living on the isolated main island, but they also traveled with Indians in canoes to the smaller outlying islands. For more than 150 years, the Jesuits followed a yearly ‘circular mission,’ visiting each of their congregations in the archipelago for a few days and electing a layman to minister to the flock in their prolonged absence. The people erected chapels to shelter the priests in inclement weather, and communities grew up around them. The wooden churches of Chiloé were born.

Iglesia San Francisco in Castro

In 1767, Charles III, for murky reasons (most likely related to the priests’ success and independence), expelled the Jesuits from the Spanish Empire, and Franciscan priests ably continued with the pastoral work and church construction being done in Chiloé.

From humble places of worship to UNESCO World Heritage Sites:

What made the wooden churches of Chiloé so unique? In their evangelizing work, the Jesuits treated the Huilliche well, and both worked together for common goals. Three elements came into force — the Jesuits’ knowledge of 17th-century European church architecture; the Huilliches’ expertise in working with wood, as evidenced in the boats they built, and, later, the palafito homes; and nature’s abundance of beautiful timber trees. Best known is Fitzroya cupressoides, a conifer of the cypress family and largest tree species in South America, known locally as alerce. Specimens can reach over 60 meters (200 feet) in height, five meters (16 feet) in diameter, and more than 3,000 years in age, making this a most legendary tree.

In the early 1900s some 150 wooden churches dotted the Chiloé landscapes, but today only about half of them remain. Many deteriorated beyond repair, while others were repaired using modern (not traditional) methods. Sixteen have been named a World Heritage Site, and work continues with a local foundation to restore and maintain others. For great photographs and more information (in Spanish), contact Fundacion Amigos de las Iglesias de Chiloe

On the walking trail of wooden churches:

After seven and a half hours of bus riding the day before, I vowed to take no more buses until my return to Valdivia (the next day…). Nature cooperated, and the weather in Castro was remarkably sunny. The small town of Nercón is four kilometers south of Castro, and off I went to visit its church.

Iglesia Nercón 

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Gracia de Nercón is set on a hill above the sea. It was built in the late 1800s on the grounds of the original church by people in the community. Rectangular in shape, its wood is unpainted except for the entranceway, topped by a large three-tiered tower, and crowned by a simple cross. A nicely landscaped garden fronts the church.  This being the start of off-season, it took a phone call to find the caretaker, who opened up the church and told me I could take the stairs to the bell tower — “but don’t ring the bell.” My claustrophobia and acrophobia kicked in, but I made it to the top.

The inside of the church has an arched vault which resembles an upside-down boat, something the local craftsmen would know very well how to construct. The alter is highlighted in blue paint, and columns are painted to resemble marble. Equally impressive are the many statues — beautifully carved and either painted or covered in fabric. The church has two patron saints: the Virgin de Gracia is dressed is satiny pink and white fabric, and the painted statue of the Archangel San Miguel plants the angel’s foot firmly on the body of the devil. The purple of the crucified Christ’s robe is stunning.

Iglesia Castro

Downtown Castro sits on a hill, and getting to it from the coast involves a climb. (I counted 101 steps on one angled street.) Iglesia San Francisco de Castro opened its doors to visitors at 3:30 p.m., and a couple dozen people swarmed into the entrance. Within five minutes, only one woman and I remained.

On the outside, corrugated tin painted in purple, yellow, and gold covers the wood of the church. The colors and the height of the towers at 42 meters  (138 feet) make this the most distinctive of Chiloé’s churches, but to me what was done inside is far more remarkable. Completed in 1912, its design was based on plans by an Italian architect, who envisioned stone as the primary building material. But the island had wood, not stone: the mayor at the time accepted the challenge, and instructed the carpenters to build the church in wood! The results are spectacular, an inspirational monument to what can happen when humans, God, and nature come together for good.