Valdivia: The Last Day
For my last full day in Chile, I remained in Valdivia, taking in the sights and sounds of a city that had become very familiar to me. After locking the gate to my Airbnb house, I made my way along a…Continue reading→
Back to the Novel: The Snow Globe
As mentioned at the start of this blog, I spent a month in Valdivia, Chile in part to research my novel-in-progress. Those who have followed these posts regularly have been fed bits and pieces of the story along with my travel…Continue reading→
Good Fortune and Misfortune: A Short History of Valdivia
As I wind down my posts about Chile (next stop will be the Inland Northwest, U.S.), it seems fitting to give a thumbnail look at the history of the city that hosted me for a month. As the second oldest Spanish…Continue reading→
The Trip That Wasn’t — Chaiten
As I looked east from the town of Castro on Chiloé, across the gray waters of the Gulf of Corcovado, I imagined the small town of Chaitén on the far side. It was a place I very much wanted to visit…Continue reading→
Creatures of the Feria Fluvial
Month after month, year after year, the Río Valdivia makes its unending way to the sea. Against that visually static backdrop, a variety of creatures live out their lives above, on, and below the water. These creatures need the river or…Continue reading→
Valdivia: Playing Tourist
Although I spent a month in Valdivia, I’ll always be a tourist, determined to explore as many tourist-brochure highlights as possible. That has taken me to squat military towers, the fish market and craft marketplace, an enclosed Foucault pendulum, a botanical…Continue reading→
A Variety of Religious Experiences
Though it wasn’t planned, I visited four different churches on four of the Sundays I was in Chile. Thrust into theology: The first Sunday, I stopped at Iglesia de San Francisco en Valdivia, a Gothic stone Roman Catholic church located in…Continue reading→
More Lakes and a Not-so-magic Mountain
A day after my trip to Termas Geométricas, I was back on a Valdivia Tours bus with the same driver/guide — along with a middle-aged couple, an aunt and her niece, all from the Santiago region — heading out in the…Continue reading→
The Spa Experience
Booking a tour from Valdivia in the off-season is no easy task, but eventually the stars aligned and I joined Valdivia Tours early one morning for a day’s outing to the Termas Geométricas (Geometrical Hot Springs). In a region east of Valdivia,…Continue reading→
The Mapuche Influence
Both Puerto Rico, where I lived for many years, and Chile have a rich Amerindian heritage. But while Puerto Rico’s Indians, the Tainos, exist only in the DNA of many islanders, the Mapuches of southern Chile are very much alive and…Continue reading→