Long and Lovely Lake Chelan

Even before I arrived in Spokane in 2013, there were two places I vowed to visit. One of them – the Route of the Hiawatha in Idaho, a spectacular 15-mile-long bike trail through old train tunnels and trestles – remains on hold as I envision, with dread, those 200-foot-high trestles. The other place – Lake Chelan – my husband and I went to in 2016.

My plunge pool, Lake Chelan

Birth of a beanpole lake:

Located in northcentral Washington, long and narrow Lake Chelan slices through 51 miles of low-lying arid hills to the south and well-watered mountains to the north. Like much of the region, it was carved by glacial ice some 17,000 years ago. Two separate glaciers – the longer and deeper upper Lucerne Basin and the lower Wapato Basin – formed the lake. Today they are connected by a relatively shallow, constricted stretch of water known as The Narrows. The Lucerne portion is deep, one of the deepest lake gorges in the world: its water here drops more than a thousand feet to almost 400 feet below sea level.

A deep notch:

Early indigenous groups undoubtedly looked at the sloping terrain and estimated the lake’s great depths: the name ‘Chelan’ comes from a Salish dialect word meaning ‘deep water’ or ‘deep notch.’ Small communities of semi-nomadic tribes had resided around the southern banks of the lake for thousands of years, fishing, hunting, gathering foods, and trading with other inland and coastal tribes. One of their trading paths led from an upper corner of the lake into the North Cascades. They named the place Stehekin, which means ‘the way through.’

The drowning of a hotel:

In the late 1800s miners trickled into the region, particularly along the upper portion of the lake, in search of precious metals. Several mines showed promise. Early settlers established hotels and rooming houses at the lower edge of the lake, today’s town of Chelan, and the upper edge around Stehekin. In the late 1920s a dam was built across the Chelan River, which connects the lake to the Columbia. This raised the water level 21 feet. One of the submerged casualties of the dam was the Field Hotel in Stehekin, an elegant resort known far and wide for its world-class decor.

What we didn’t see:

On our visit to the lake, we went directly to Stehekin. No roads reach the village, and travelers arrive by Lady of the Lake boats. For us, that meant four hours up on the regular boat and two and three-quarter hours back on the express. Spectacular views and interesting conversations with fellow travelers made the rides seem shorter.  Other stops along the lake we saved for another visit — recreational beaches at Chelan, where the water is warmer; local golf courses; renowned apple orchards; dozens of lovely vineyards; Manson, an artsy village on the bay northwest of Chelan, home to several artisan wineries; and Holden Village, halfway up the lake to the west, a former copper mine, now a Lutheran retreat and a near-casualty of the 2015 Wolverine Creek Fire.

North to Stehekin:

Near the lodge, Stehekin

At a point where it seems the lake will never end and mountains soar in jagged majesty, the boat turned into the village of Stehekin. A couple of docks; narrow strips of coastline; shops and stores around the North Cascades Lodge; and assorted other homes and buildings are scattered on wooded grounds sloping up from the lake. Some 85 residents live in or near the village year-round. We stayed overnight at the lodge in a comfortably rustic room with a partial water view.

The old school, Stehekin Valley

Stehekin is not upscale, but it does offer a lot to the outdoor enthusiast.  A visitor center provides talks and information. There are bicycles, kayaks, and horses for rent; bus tours to various places of interest; and hikes along the lakes and into the mountains, including two that take you along the Pacific Crest Trail System.

We spent an afternoon walking along a road through Stehekin Valley, stopping at the popular Stehekin Pastry Company, an old one-room schoolhouse, and the 312-foot Rainbow Falls. In the morning I put on a swimsuit, grabbed a towel, and found my own little plunge pool, where I braved the lake’s 50-plus-degree water and took a (very) short swim.

Next time, we will stay longer.